My friends needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their home is at the low point on their plot and for years the septic system has not yet worked well. They required to fix it so they can have toilets which actually flush within the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has accented the issue so that they made a decision to spend the sizable amount of cash to fix the issue.
The device contains the standard septic tank then a septic effluent pump tank and then a distribution tank located in the top from the hill. The newest septic tank had to be placed in order to not disturb the existing tank so that the existing system could be used during construction. The pump tank must be located slightly beneath the septic tank in order that gravity would flow the waste water with it. The septic tank effluent pump sits inside the pump tank and pumps the water for the distribution tank high on the hill. After that, this type of water will drain in to the field lines by gravity.
My job would be to connect the sump pump and alarm for the electrical supply. The alarm is necessary from the local sewer codes to create a visual and audible alarm in case the water level in the pump tank exceed a certain level. This offers a young warning there is a thing wrong with the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm has to have its very own separate circuit. In the event the alarm was powered by the supply to the pump and the breaker tripped for the pump, there would be no alarm. I installed the alarm inside the house so it can easily be seen and heard as suggested through the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires directly to the alarm panel and ran all of them inside conduit so that it would be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for your AC addition. This box had a couple of extra spaces inside it that made a perfect location to pull power for the new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for that sump pump service and a 15 AMP standard breaker for the alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers for this older Square D box.
The most labor intensive portion of the job was running the underground wires through the box at the front of your home for the septic field behind your house. Most of the trench had to be dug by hand as a result of close proximity of the AC compressor, flower beds as well as a sidewalk. The majority of the trench was dug by the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for the pump along with a 14 gage wire for the alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit had not been needed. I did run conduit for extra defense against the box down to the foot of the 24 inch qiggkp trench each and every end of the wire. I used the same 14 gage direct burial wire to extend the float wiring from your alarm unit to the field.
In the pump tank, I installed a weather proof single 20 AMP outlet on a 4×4 post. Here is where the Myers Sewer pump is plugged in. The plug supplies the required local disconnect since the breaker is not within sight from the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
Some conduit was cut to fit to the neck from the tank so the cord towards the septic pump and also the alarm float wiring will be protected. The conduit ends slightly underneath the outlet for the septic pump.
Our local inspector was pleased with the details and water proofing. I used a compression fitting towards the bottom of each conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to stop critters from finding their way into the junction boxes.
I tied a duration of rope to the sump pump, fastened the alarm float towards the outlet pipe and thoroughly lowered the sewer pump into position. I secured the free end from the rope to one of the lifting lugs of the sewer pump tank. The plumbing contractor can finish his work to get their system operational. I am sure they are going to enjoy being able to take baths and flush the toilet even if it rains.